Saga Of A New Seadoo
"The water is deep enough up ahead." he said. "Uh-uh."
she said. "Uh-huh."he said. "Uh-uh." she said. "kerRUNCH!!"said the Seadoo.

This
is a basic repair involving some glass repair and gelcoat work. The laminate,
from simply looking at it, doesn't appear to be damaged. But after looking
inside and seeing a fracture that you could hang your finger nail in, it
became apparent that the glass itself was hurt. So
after grinding away the gelcoat, we exposed the real damage. Lotsa seperation
in the laminate. The grinding is best done with a good coarse disk. I like
to use a 24 grit for this,the coarser the better. You can't do enough to
insure a good bond. The area must be absolutely dry,and should be at a
temperature of about 55 to 90 degrees fahrenheit with the humidity as low
as possible. You can work hotter and you can work colder, but it can get
tricky.
This
a basic repair using fiberglass mat, polyester resin, MEKP catalyst, and
gelcoat. It goes as follows, first the resin is catalized (catalyst stirred
in) then it is applied with the brush to the part, liberally as you would
in using paint remover,then a layer of glass, more resin, more glass, until
you have the thickness you are seeking or just a very little more, then
you use the roller to smooth out the laminate, compressing it slightly
and removing the bubbles. Then it needs to cure. On repairs that require
laminates thicker than one quarter inch it may be nessecary to do it in
stages as the repair will generate some heat and could diminish the chance
of a good bond.
This
view is after the repair has been ground slightly with 24 grit disk and
filed with 36 grit paper. Generally the higher the number, the finer the
paper. At this point "fair" only means that the repair should conform to
the part. You can develop a real feel for this with your hands. Just close
your eyes and run your hand over the side of a car, or refridgerator for
that matter, and if you use just a little to no pressure you will feel
things you can't see. With practice you can feel every dimple, wave, ridge
and dip in anything.
Once
the repair is fair it's time to get to the gelcoat. the first application
is done with a brush. The gelcoat has to be catalized also. Gelcoat is
basically a resin with fillers and pigments to achieve a color wear surface.
they can be matched as paints are, using their own type of pigments. This
layer is applied as a filler for gouges, scratches and such. It is intended
to be sanded off and should only remain in the low areas after sanding.
We started with 36 grit and went to 80 grit and now are ready for the finish
gelcoat, which is to be sprayed.
And
finally a view of the finished repair. Between these last two pictures,
the repair had been sprayed, using catalyst, styrene (thinner for gel and
resins),sanded and buffed. Generally the gelcoat must be sanded with paper
graduating from about 120 , 320 , 400 , 600 grit, and ultrafine, then buffed
and glazed as was done in the olden days of 24 coats of laquer. There are
many variations to the gelcoat procedures that we can discuss at length
later.
This is a shot of the inside of the Seadoo after the repair.
AS ALWAYS, DISPOSE OF YOUR SCRAP AND WASTE PROPERLY. DON'T POLLUTE!!
WEAR GOOD DUSTMASKS AND READ MANUFACTURERS WARNINGS!!
Home Sneak
Peak ChopperGun
Gel-coat
Tips Turtle Repair Links
Area
This site in it's entirety is
Copyrighted © 1999 by William Borden
and mastered by SirWill,
For The Critters of Slater Hollow
Will
Borden